Winter Climbing Conditions October 2002

31st October 2002

Although it was dry over the last couple of days the freezing level went up today and the snow line has risen. Simon toured over Aonach Beag on Tuesday on his skis and said The Goose on the way back was as good as he's ever skied it. Yesterday he and Craig were on Deep Throat in Coire an Lochain and did a good job of unburying it! There were many folk on Savage Slit and conditions were good. Today there was good ice on Raeburns Gully on Lochnagar making it a grade III. Tomorrow might just be OK but don't bother on Saturday! 70mph winds and +4 on the tops!

29th October 2002

Despite the showers yesterday and the high cloud today above the summits, the overnight temperatures have been quite low. We have had ice and frost each morning so far this week which can only be freezing things higher up as well. There is, however, a large weather system heading our way ready for the weekend. It could be that warm and wet south westerlies ruin our weekend plans.

27th October 2002
A blustery day with some determined squalls bringing even more snow but brilliantly clear views of spectacular hills, shafts of sunlight and showers. This is the place to live, so long as you have a nice warm house to wrap yourself up in! With high pressure floating around all week we might get some clear nights and good freezes ready for next weekend's action. Fingers crossed!

26th October 2002

Slightly cooler temperatures froze a crust onto the wet snow but that's all. Donald, Ewen and Louise had a fine day wading up Curved Ridge. There was snow falling between 1pm and 3pm, otherwise it was a lovely day. Over in Coire an t'Sneachda an avalanche triggered by one party member carried another party member 150m down below the Goat Track. Lots of snow recently and rising temperatures have led to some unstable snow, take care. There were lots of people in the Coire but not many climbs being done - the turf isn't all that frozen. More snow coming tomorrow and next week. Rumour has it that The Duel was being attempted today ... I wonder if they had their rock shoes with them!

25th October 2002

It was slightly warmer this morning and heavy rain was falling up to 600m, but this didn't stop Ewen and Donald from going to look at their new route. After taking two and a half hours to get up to 1000m, wading through chest deep snow, they did brilliantly, climbing some VII,8 ground before lowering off due to inadequately frozen turf. Although snow was falling to 600m the freezing level was at the summits, all the snow was wet and self releasing and the turf was only frozen in places. There are a few small patches of ice. All we need is a good freeze!

24th October 2002

The snow continues to fall, a major fall last night and showers today have brought the snow line down to 460m. Not a lot of ice to be seen but plenty of snow. The Cairngorm ski road was blocked with drifting snow yesterday but the wind dropped today and will stay as a gentle breeze until Saturday. Donald will end his frustration tomorrow when he explores a new route in Glen Coe - we'll let you know how he gets on!

23rd October 2002
The last couple of days have brought some nasty wild and windy weather, but with the depression staying far enough south for the temperature to stay low, the rain has been falling as snow above 900m on the west coast including Ben Nevis, Glen Coe and even further south to Ben Cruachan. I don't know of anyone who has been up for a close inspection but I'm sure classic ridges like Curved Ridge would be great fun. Jonny and Danny climbed Stirling Bomber V,7 in Corrie an t'Sneachda on Sunday, not bad for their first climb of the winter. The forecast for the weekend isn't the best but Saturday could be a nice enough day and there should still be a wintry feel to the hills.

20th October 2002
The winter has officially started. The dedicated scratchers, those that moan away the summer in anticipation of the return of the white stuff, have been granted a good early start to the season. The guessing game has begun, for the next six months we'll be wracking our brains to work out where to find the best conditions and weather. Hopefully our reports will help you make your choice. The Northern Corries of the Cairngorms have had a plastering of snow that has produced a definite snow line. With overnight temperatures down to -7 and a northerly wind many of the buttresses are well rimed up. Consequently Fall Out Corner, Deep Throat, Hookers Corner and Savage Slit were all climbed over the weekend. Perhaps a keen team will head over to Shelterstone - Needle was first climbed free in October making use of the long daylight hours!