November 2006 Conditions Reports

29th November 2006
It's been a soggy and windy few days with heavy rain on the summits. However the snow is surviving well. The major gullies are full and the heads of most high coires have snow. On Stob Coire nan Lochain Broad Gully is complete and the boulder slope below the gully is covered. Last winter this boulder wasn't really covered until mid-February so the cover of snow we have already should set us up well for the winter. The Red Burn on Ben Nevis is quite well covered, the upper slopes of Nevis Range and Glen Coe ski areas have filled in and the Lost Valley and Coire nam Beith coires of Bidean Nam Bian have a good cover. The wild and windy theme will stay with us for a week to come with freezing levels around or above the summits.

24th November 2006

23rd November 2006

This morning was warming up slowly and the sun was shining. The freezing level is due to hover around the summits for a few days to come so the climbing might not be so good over the weekend apart from on winter scrambles and ridges such as Castle Ridge, E Ridge Beinn a'Chaorainn, North Buttress Stob Ban, Curved Ridge etc. However the slightly warmer temperatures should help to consolidate the snow and turn it into solid neve. I don't think it will get stripped right back ... hopefully!

22nd November 2006

Many thanks to Steve for the pictures! Today started out with a slight frost and clear skies. Donald and I climbed Route I on Carn Dearg Buttress which makes a good start to the winter. It has a short walk in, is only three pitches long and is brilliant! If you are into tight squeezes and chimney climbing this is the one for you. Be warned though, Donald and I only just managed to squeeze up the top chimney and we're both pretty skinny! Ice is forming on the Curtain and we used some ice on our route. The snow was crusty though and needs a good thaw and refreeze. Avalanche debris has come all the way down from the major gullies right into the coire and there are large cornices around.

20th November 2006
It was a stunning start to the weekend on Saturday morning. Wall to wall sunshine, snow on the hills and down to sea level as well! It only lasted till about 2pm though as the clouds quickly blew over and brought rain and snowfall above a couple hundred metres. The winds picked up and yesterday was windy with snow showers merging to continuous snow on the hills. This morning is extremely windy with a gentle thaw to about 1000m that will start to consolidate all the fresh snow. The unsettled, wild and windy theme will last throughout the week and further snow will accumulate in the gullies. All over, it's a great start to the winter!

17th November 2006

The snow made it to sea level for a while this afternoon! On Ledge Route on Ben Nevis the snow was continuously shin deep and was thigh deep in a couple of places. About 30cm is covering the summit. Avalanche debris was sitting at the foot of Number Five Gully and there is plenty of firm wind slab around. A little ice has been forming and there is a crusty layer of snow on the rocks underneath today's fresh stuff. There are lots of great objectives to go for - something rocky and not dependent on ice, away from any gullies!

16th November 2006

More snow on the hills and down to 600m this morning. It has been building up steadily over the last few days and will continue doing so for quite a few days to come. The ridges and buttresses are going to be the best option just now. Don't expect any consolidated snow in the gullies or any base underneath the snow. The turf will be freezing slowly but not completely there yet. Good options are Dorsal Arete, Curved Ridge, North Buttress, Aonach Eagach, Tower Ridge, Castle Ridge, CMD Arete, N Buttress Stob Ban etc. Of course there are many more less well known options as well.

15th November 2006
A reasonable fall of snow last night has brought the snow line down to 700m this morning.

14th November 2006

A warm and wet weekend washed away the wee bit of snow we had last week but more came last night down to 900m and is starting to drift into the gullies and behind the fences at Nevis Range. Heavy showers tonight and for the rest of the week will make this weekend a chance for the first winter climbs on the west coast.

11th November 2006

Chris went up Beinn a Chaorainn East ridge today which makes for a great day out to warm up for the winter. It is a nice grade I ridge that tops out right on the summit and is very well sheltered from winds from the west. The snow was down to about 650m. A great day clearing holds and kicking steps in the lee of the Westerlies. Snow unconsolidated and turf unfrozen.

10th November 2006

The snow has arrived as promissed.

8th November 2006

Still no snow on the west coast and not cold enough to rime up any of the crags. A couple of routes have been done in the Cairngorms where a gentle dusting of something white is all that's needed for a winter ascent but it usually takes a little longer over here. The weather has been nice though and I went out for a quick scramble on the ribs of Meall an t'Suidhe, up the right hand one and down the left hand. Great, easy scrambling on sound granite in a fabulous situation. The glen is giving us its very own fireworks display with all the colours of the autumn in full strength. North west winds today and tomorrow should give us some snow ... fingers crossed!

1st November 2006
With the new month there is a new feeling of the coming winter. After a very warm and mostly wet Autumn so far this morning gave us the first frost at sea level and a very light dusting of snow on the hills. With areas of sunshine moving around the white topped, brown and red hills the views were just spectacular. An area of high pressure will be over us for quite a few days so this weekend will be a great one for those chilly Autumn scrambles.