November 2005 Conditions Reports

29th November 2005

Tower Ridge is in slightly tricky condition just now, buries in soft snow and rimed up with nothing at all helpful! All the high buttresses on Ben Nevis are well rimes but there is not much ice forming yet. Tower Scoop and the bluffs beneath the cascades are forming but only quite slowly. The boys had a brilliant bum slide down the Red Burn all the way to the waterfall just above the track! It's been a few years since we've had the easy way down in place so it's good to see it established so early. It will snow for a while tomorrow before warming up.

28th November 2005

Plenty of climbing was done at the weekend including Menage a Trois on Beinn an Dothaidh (where there was lots of rime and frozen turf), Redemption and West Chimney on Bidean nam Bian, Innuendo, Spectre and the two Original Routes on Stob Coire nan Lochain. Today was a beautiful day with little wind and, again, very low temperatures. It didn't get above 2 degrees celcius at sea level! Donald took Simon and Jason along the Aonach Eagach which was well covered in snow but not too icy. A good bum slide took them down quickly and topped off a great day.

27th November 2005

A cold N wind with lots of moisture in it has been blowing for a few days leading to exposed crags now being well frozen and rimed up. The snow line stayed well down and snow showers are again falling. Donald and Andy made good on their explorations in the Mamores climbing two new routes at grade VII and grade VIII! A good warm up to the winter as their first routes! There are still a few more to do as well as some easier ridge lines so you'll have to come back to find out where they all are after we've done them all! Cold for another few days with more snow before a gentle warm up for the second half of the week.

25th November 2005

24th November 2005

9:45am - showers have started to bring snow down to sea level!
4:45pm - the wind picked up from the N, the temperature continued to fall and heavy snow showers carried on coating the hills in fluffy snow, settling just about down to sea level. I went for a wee leg-stretcher up one of the buttresses on the SW side of Meall an t'Suidhe. These are great, blocky granite ridge lines that give some good easy climbing with virtually no walk in when you don't want to go too high. They were covered in snow and ice was forming on the path!

22nd November 2005

Yesterday was relatively warm but the clouds cleared during the day and the temperature dropped again last night. Today was a very pleasant, cool autumn day with absolutely no wind on the loch. The snow in the bigger gullies has been transforming well and there have been reports of grade III gullies at 1200m being climbed in superb condition. The gentle thaw freeze over the last couple of days will only help the snow transform into better condition. All forecasts are saying a very cold northerly storm will be with us by Friday bringing snow and bitter temperatures.

20th November 2005

Unfortunately the weekend did not quite live up to its earlier promise as the temperature slowly rose through Saturday to reach +1 celcius on Aonach Mor by 9pm. The clouds built slowly as well so by Sunday most of the fresh snow had melted but the weeps of ice and frozen turf were still there, if a bit drippy! Donald and I carried on our exploration of the Mamores climbing potential and found some great, damp granite ridges that will make superb winter climbs. The ice that had formed on the water courses on Ben Nevis (Waterfall Gully, The Curtain, Garadh Gully etc.) will be melting back slowly but it is only a gentle thaw so we are certainly not losing all the snow in the gullies. The long range forecast is for a serious fall of snow and cold N winds by the end of the coming week. Let's hope so!

18th November 2005
Plenty of activity in the Cairngorms going on just now. They had a little more snow than we did here and it is the common and very busy first option for many people. To avoid the crowds head west where there are whole crags with nobody else on them. It was colder again today but just as sunny and still. John climbed Tower Ridge which was in tricky condition with unhelpful snow and some verglas but it is always a grand day out. The temperature might rise slightly over the weekend as the wind turns SW but don't expect a big thaw just yet!

17th November 2005

Another perfect day in the Outdoor Capital of the UK! Donald and Andy went exploring in the Mamores and found everything covered in snow down to 600m and a good freeze starting to form ice. It didn't go above freezing in the glen today but the sky was clear and the sunshine lovely! The autumn is wonderful and days like today prove it!

16th November 2005

It has cooled down dramatically and this morning we were treated to a sunrise without a cloud to be seen, frost on the ground and fresh snow down to 600m! High pressure will keep it good through the weekend.

14th November 2005
The last week has given us a couple of good thaw freeze cycles on the tops with a thaw going on just now. The snow from the start of last week, which was forming cornices and filling E and N facing gullies, was soaked through but not washed away entirely before another temperature dip on Friday night brought further snow down to 700m off a NW wind. Dawn at Corrour was stunning yesterday with the loch like a mirror, sun streaking across white dusted hills scattered with relieved looking stags! A brilliant place. Today has warmed up, +8 celcius on the tops and heavy rain. Tomorrow is another day though and summit temperatures will be about -4 celcius with cold northerly winds and building pressure. This coming weekend will see some action on the snowed up rock and, you never know, perhaps the odd dribble of ice!

7th November 2005
Torrential rain and a dip in temperatures have combined to put down quite a covering of snow down to 700m last night and today. It was 5 degrees celcius in town with heavy sleet showers covering the roads with ice! It will be a wild night tonight with snow accumulating above 900m brought in on 100mph winds! Cold enough for snow for the next few days as well. Fingers crossed!

5th November 2005

Today was a good day to be climbing inside, especially as the Mixed Masters climbing competition was going on at The Ice Factor. Fifty something competitors competed on 15 boulder and top rope problems before leading semi-finals and finals on the main wall, fully articulated! Local talent performed well including our own Donald King who can 4th over all! Well done! Still a bit too warm outside for any snow.