Winter Climbing Conditions November 2002

28th November 2002
It's been a warm and wet week on the west coast and over the rest of Scotland. Last weekend most parties were disapointed to see the black rock of the buttresses between thin strips of snow in the gullies. I did hear one report of 70degree ice in Number Three Gully on Ben Nevis having been climbed on Monday but since then the rain has done its best to wash it all back into the loch. This weekend looks like it will be just as wet and disapointing in terms of winter climbing however after the next big depression passes over the north of Scotland on Monday it could well pull down cold north westerly winds with the possibility of snow. Let's hope so!

21st November 2002

Donald and Jenny nearly got blown off the Pinnacle Ridge on Skye today so they retreated at the second pinnacle. It was dry and the remaining snow in the gullies was very soft. The wild and wet weather over the last two days has flooded NE Scotland and although it hasn't been quite so wet in the west (thanks to a SE wind) the rocks are free of snow. This weekend will still be mixed and windy so I'm not planning to go out anywhere myself.

18th November 2002
After a cold calm day yesterday, when a few climbs in the northern coires were climbed and the ski tourers were out, today the temperature slowly pushed the fresh snow line back up-hill. On Stirling Bomber and Fiachail Couloir in Coire an t'Sneachda Donald and Ewen found firm snow but unfrozen turf and rime falling off the rocks. On the west coast it was dry again but thawed to the tops and will carry on getting warmer this week with some very windy weather on wednesday and thursday as the next low pressure system winds up. It's going to be wild again!

16th November 2002
Today light wet snow is falling down to about 750m and the hills are encased in cloud. It's not as cold or clear as the forecast predicted and it hasn't frozen at all. It is due to clear up though so may be tomorrow will be better but it's not going to be perfect buttress climbing conditions. Classic ridges will be the best option. With the winds returning to southerlies next week it doesn't look like it will freeze very soon. Keep on waiting a little longer!

15th November 2002

Despite the strong NE airflow and clear patches over the last couple of days it has not been at all cold and the freezing level has been above the summits. There has not been so much rain though so there is still snow around in the grooves and gullies. Today the Aonach Eagach was getting a dusting of snow on the pinnacles down to about 850m.

12th November 2002

During the day yesterday the temperature dropped so that the heavy rain showers fell as snow down to 550m. It stayed cold last night and more snow fell over night giving all the buttresses on Ben Nevis a good covering. Today was dry and cold and there are stars out tonight. The forecast suggests it will be a bit warmer this week but staying fairly dry. If we get clear nights it might just be worth a scratch on something suitably rocky at the weekend but it is still unsettled so we will have to wait and see.

8th November 2002

The beautiful Autumn colours were at their best today with some good sunshine and only a couple of light showers floating around. With a good freeze tonight, a 600m freezing level and very few light showers tomorrow, it'll be a great day for walking and scrambling up those classic ridges. Sunday will be warm and wet again.

7th November 2002

We've had a good fall of fresh snow over night down to 650m and it certainly feels colder outside. The top station at Nevis Range is at 650m which is about where the snowline is on today's picture. Donald and Andy were on the Rhyolite Romp on Aonach Dubh in Glen Coe today, a great adventure in not very pleasant heavy showers and strong winds. The snow is there but it's still very wet stuff and not producing the best climbing conditions. Good enough for some people though, I'm sure! More snow is forecast for tomorrow and Saturday could be a nice enough day, the better day of the weekend, with the freezing level around the tops.

4th November 2002

All of the snow has been melted off the buttresses but there is a good depth left for this time of year in the major gullies and below the faces.

3rd November 2002

The forecast was right and the weather was horrible in the hills all weekend, although not as wet in the glen as I thought it would be. On Ben More on Mull today it was wild and windy but only clagged in later on in the day. We're back to shorts and T-shirts here as the 70mph warm wet winds strip all the snow off the buttresses. There is a good depth of snow in the major gullies though and at least the crags will have been cooled down over the last couple of weeks. I'm sure that colder temperatures will return soon anough and as soon as they do I'll be posting reports on what is happening.