January 2008 Conditions Reports

31st January 2008

As forecast snow fell to 200m today and there was lots of it! Very strong westerly as well meant it was a day for Buachaille Etive Mor for Ian and me. Being very well sheltered from south round to west winds and mostly buttress climbing it's a good choice in conditions like today. We climbed D Gully Buttress, a fantastic route with the crux being much harder than it looks, especially when it's as well buried as today. We then got onto Curved RIdge which we descended - the winds was cracking around Crowberry Tower and the slopes and gullies at the top of Curved Ridge were deep in fresh snow with layers of groupel. Crowberry basin is also a well know avalanche trap so we went past very quickly! Lots more snow is forecast over the next few days with strong winds so stay on the ridges and buttresses this weekend!

30th January 2008
We lost a fair bit more snow on Monday with warm rain all day. Yesterday saw the start of the refreeze with the freezing level at around 1000m and a dusting of fresh snow. Today we woke to fresh snow down to 300m and much colder temperatures so Ian and I went up Ben Nevis to climb Thomson's Route. There was 20cm fresh snow and lots more fell during the day off strong westerly winds. It was a proper winter day with full on conditions and the climbing was fantastic! The first (crux) chimney is quite tricky with little ice but the rest is steady away grade IV with ice, snow rock and turf all mixed in! A great route and highly recommended especially as it is completely safe from avalanches and cornice collapse. Over the next few days returning polar maritime air will bring low temperatures, lots of snow and strong winds.

27th January 2008

Through the night it warmed up and all the fresh snow from yesterday slid off or melted away. Today was warm and cloudy with steady drizzle. The ice was streaming with water and staying warm and dry was near enough impossible! So Rebecca and I had a challenging time on Tower Scoop (grade IV today) and Gardyloo Gully. Water ice can be quite nice to climb when it is wet because the ice goes soft and easy to climb - it was a little too wet today to call it nice at times but Gardyloo Gully was in great shape and full of character with the most perfect belay stance ever under the chockstone! There is ice on Gardyloo Buttress and Indicator Wall (Smiths Route looked complete and Psychadelic Wall had ice down to the foot of the climb) and when it freezes again later this week expect there to be lots of great ice climbing around. Meanwhile Craig went up Curved Ridge and discovered how apt the name The Water Slide is. He says "Conditions pages indicated lots of snow but mild conditions and rain have denuded it completely. Some snow on the exit from the ridge to summit but it is sodden, unpredictable and not very nice. Nice bum slide down the Tourist Path though!" The moral is good things come to those who wait but we'll make do with what we're given in the meantime!

26th January 2008

Still windy today but colder with a dusting of fresh snow down to 900m at dawn and snowfall down to 500m as we walked in to Ben Nevis. Rebecca and I stayed out of the wind under the Trident Buttresses while deciding what to do. There was steady snowfall all day and by about 11am it started sluffing off the gullies as the temperature started to rise. So we headed for North Trident Buttress to keep away from the sluffs and had a fantastic climb before abseiling into and descending Moonlight Gully. After the major thaw we've gone through this week I was expecting snow in the corrie but most of the climbs to be washed away. So I was surprised to see it still looking very wintry in Coire na Ciste and Green Gully still complete with plenty of ice all over The Comb and Number Three Gully Buttress. The cascade of Compression Crack is still complete, Central Gully and Nasturtium in the Trident Buttresses and there is even a little ice at the top of The Curtain. I was told Point Five Gully still looks fat and Tower Scoop and Gardyloo Gully were both climbed today in great condition. There is good snow cover right down to the base of the screes under Number Five Gully mostly because of big avalanche trails that slid down over the last few days! Warmer but drier tomorrow.

25th January 2008
A particularly challenging day by anyone's standards!

24th January 2008

Wet and warm weather for two days took away a reasonable volume of snow from the hills before it cooled again today. In fact it was cold enough to freeze the snowpack solid overnight in many places and it turned into quite a nice day. I took my Mum and Dad to Gelnachulish for some further exploration of this great corrie and some nice grade II snow gullies. Some fresh snow fell today but it will be washed away again by warm, wet and extremely windy weather tomorrow and through the weekend.

21st January 2008

Some news from Saturday - Jim and team climbed Zero Gully and found the going good for grade V but certainly character building belays! Conditions were good with thick ice on the first 4 pitches, followed by hard neve on the final section to the summit (painful calves today!). Basically its front pointing from bottom to top with no, and I repeat no, rests for the calves. Topped out at the same time as a couple who had just finished cresta run who thought it was going more like grade IV. Today the bulk of the snowfall stayed down south and we enjoyed quite cold and dry weather for most of the day. Gary had a good day on Meall Ghaordaidh near Killin. There was excellent frozen snow & ice today from 700m and he went up the gully in the centre of the picture. The north side of the main summit was looking good too, a lot of snow there and worthy of some exploring. It just goes to show there is great mountaineering to do away from the crowds - all you need is a map and some imagination. Thanks guys for your reports, please feel free to send me pictures and reports of your adventures! Tomorrow will start cold and dry but a thaw will start tomorrow afternoon with strong winds and the refreeze starting on Thursday.

20th January 2008

Despite the forecast today was the worse day of the weekend. Frequent falls of fresh snow, a squally wind and the freezing level around 1100m made for a challenging day for the spindrift, navigation and keeping comfortable. Mike and I enjoyed a great climb on Number Three Gully Buttress before finding our way over Carn Dearg to descend Ledge Route. More snow is coming down just now to around 700m and more again will come tomorrow.

19th January 2008

The strong winds of last night dropped away quickly this morning to give a very pleasant day with a couple of snow showers, fairly light winds and the freezing level around 900m. Ian, Joanne and I walked up Ben Nevis from Achintee Farm by the Mountain Track. It is covered in snow from the Red Burn (half way) and we wore crampons from there to the top and back again. An ice axe and crampons, map and compass and the skills to use it all are essential for the hills in winter. Make sure you are fully prepared for the snowy conditions that will last until May at least. Unfortunately we didn't see the view from the top but between the clouds there were some great views lower down including a wee rainbow over Loch Eil. There were queues on Point Five Gully and lots of routes were enjoyed by lots of happy climbers enjoying the great conditions.

18th January 2008
Fresh snow yesterday on increasingly strong winds was replaced with even stronger winds today and a big rise in temperature. Rapid thaws like this after fresh snow cause very unstable snow and avalanches as observed below Number Five Gully and Number Two Gully on Ben Nevis. Tomorrow will be colder again so the water released in the snowpack today will refreeze turning the snow solid again and forming more ice on the climbs. To be honest we need more thaws and refreezes like this to bring the big face climbs into condition. It's the stormy and changeable weather that brings the best climbing in the Spring.

16th January 2008

Today the wind dropped very early on, the clouds cleared and it turned into a perfect day. Luke, Ed and I climbed Tower Ridge which was in brilliant condition and, combined with the great weather, it was one of the best days I've had on Ben Nevis! The guys led themselves up to the Little Tower and we climbed together for the rest. The snow is firm and crunchy everywhere, the rocks are rimed and there is some ice around. Other teams were on NE Buttress, Stringfellow and Ledge Route but this is a quiet time of year and it felt like we had the place to ourselves. Compression Crack, Waterfall Gully, Boomers Requiem, Central Gully in the Trident Buttresses, North Gully, Glovers Chimney, Green Gully, Comb Gully are all looking good and Point Five Gully is looking very fat. Gemini, The Curtain, The Cascade and others are getting there but there is still no ice really on Smiths Route, Indicator Wall, Orion Face or the Minus Face.

15th January 2008

With barely any fresh snowfall today the avalanche hazard stayed at 2 today instead of the forecast 4 - we're in the centre of a deep depression and it could easily have moved away slightly to bring the strong winds and heavy snow but it decided not to! So Luke, Ed and I had a good time on Aonach Mor E Face, using the ice bluffs south of Easy Gully to get the guys leading on some grade III ground. It was cold, especially with the wind blowing onto the crag and the snow is slowly freezing right down to ground level. There is little ice on the crag but the turf is very solid and icy. There were six other people in the corrie (all on the Mountain Guides' training course) so it was a nice, quiet day. Cold again tomorrow.

14th January 2008

The thaw yesterday didn't take away much snow, just made it all very wet. So walking in to Stob Coire nan Lochain with Luke and Ed was very hard going today with shin deep snow from 500m above sea level! Still, we made it and did a revision of snow anchors (buried axes and dynamic belaying) before Luke and Ed led up Dorsal Arete. We had a little fresh snow during the afternoon (3cm), very light winds and the freezing level was just above the top of the crags so the old snow had an ice crust and was quite stable. Donald, Freddie, David and Ben went up Curved Ridge which was also covered in soft wet snow. Quite clear skies tonight and cooler temperatures tomorrow will continue to refreeze the wet snow and we might get more fresh snow in the afternoon although the forecasts differ about how much.

13th January 2008
Heavy rain was falling on the tops by first light (after a period of snow during the night) and didn't stop until mid-afternoon. The snowpack is saturated along with anyone who ventured out today! Donald decided the crags in Glen Nevis was the best option for his team (Freddie, David and Ben) and they all did very well to stay out for as long as they did. There were a few intrepid skiers out as well enjoying the purely Scottish skiing. The wind wasn't anywhere near as strong as forecast and the thaw has not stripped away much snow. We have a very good base for the skiing as well as in the gullies and corries and this thaw has just stabalised it all ready to refreeze over the next two or three days and form really nice icy conditions. It's been a great start to the winter and I think we will be set up now for a very promising season.

12th January 2008

Today was one of those days to remember for a long time. A hard frost, sunshine and no wind combined with snow down to 500m all over Scotland and very clear air all made for a stunning day. Radek enjoyed his first day out in winter on Curtain Rail and Ledge Route. This is a nice little climb of three pitches parallel to The Curtain that finishes on the first of the ledges of Ledge Route. Other folks were on Route I, Moonlight Gully Buttress (a big sandbag), Green Gully, Tower Ridge and something very hard looking on The Comb.

Another team decided to climb Number Five Gully - this wasn't the best choice they've ever made looking at the cornices at the top and the deep, soft snow all the way up. The temperature will rise dramatically tomorrow with rain on the summits so cornices like these will be falling off everywhere and large natural avalanches are quite likely in many areas. However, after tomorrow, the snow will be consolidated by the thaw and a refreeze is forecast for Tuesday and Wednesday so expect some excellent icy conditions then.

11th January 2008

Slightly colder again today and with very light winds. More fresh snow last night made Ledge Route more buried today than I've ever seen it before! There was also a lot of graupel mixed in with the wind slab making me quite nervous on the first big ledges. So, Mike, Ritchie and I were very cautious as we made our way up, choosing the safest line and pitching the first two diagonals of the route. Higher up on the rock crest we were happy and as we got to the top the light coming through the thin clouds was beautiful. A real treat of a day, especially as we got Ledge Route to ourselves and in such fine, wintry condition. Several lines look complete - Boomers Requiem, Waterfall Gully, The Curtain, Glovers Chimney, Garadh Gully etc but the "ice" could very well be just cruddy snow. After a thaw and refreeze it will be brilliant. Luckily that's what we'll get on Sunday and Monday. Before then we have tomorrow to enjoy - it's going to be a cracker, make sure you're out enjoying it.

10th January 2008

Donald and I went exploring Glenachulish in the Ballachulish horseshoe and came away with a two pitch grade VIII,8 new route called Peekaboo. The intention was to have a look around and maybe have a go at some middle grade climbs so Donald's effort was even more remarkable. The first pitch is undercut to start and then up a steep wall on mostly good cracks to a rest ledge. The final step left and vertical wall are very tenuous and finding protection is very awkward. Thankfully Donald is very good at finding and placing good gear! More snow fell today and the temperature rose slightly during the day causing some surface sluffs at around 600m to 800m where we were.

9th January 2008

Snow, snow, storms and more snow has been the theme this week. With the freezing level never going above 800m the snowline has wobbled between 700m and 500m where it is today. Above 700m there has been no thaw and refreeze to settle the snow and the wind has been blowing in several directions so there are many layers in the snow and windslab on lots of different aspects. With fresh cornices to deal with as well, a cautious aproach is recommended! Climbing is still perfectly possible though and buttress routes are in fine shape just now. Andy Turner and Steve Ashworth have been at it again - they climbed a new route to the right of Darth Vader on Creag Coire na Ciste, Ben Nevis yesterday and graded it VIII,8. I remember when Dave MacLeod did three grade VIII routes in one winter, the first time this had been acheived. These days, grade VIII and above new routes are being climbed onsight with no falls relatively regularly. Who says Scottish climbing is going nowhere? It will remain cold and snowy for the rest of the week and through the weekend.

6th January 2008

It was a bit nicer today with the fresh snow line sitting at around 700m and just occasional showers adding to the accumulations and reasonably light westerly winds. The snow has been collecting on generally east facing slopes and gullies where there is now a significant depth of snow, sufficient for Nevis Range to open up for skiing for the first time this winter. Naturally there is also a lot of wind slab around, some poorly bonded layers in the snow pack and some avalanche activity has been seen. Fresh cornices are very soft and growing fast so expect some to fall off without warning. Ridges and buttresses would be a good idea for the next wee while if you can get there - further snowfall and very strong winds are forecast for the coming week.

5th January 2008

Fresh snow has been building up steadily on the hills. Heavy showers were falling continuously all day, forcing family Pescod indoors to get a bit of climbing. The Ice Factor is a very friendly climbing facility and it's great to take the youngsters there. Owen (4) was doing great on the climbs when he wasn't too distracted by swinging on the rope!

4th January 2008

A bit of a surprise today with fresh snowfall right down to sea level during the night and more fell on and off all day at all levels. Donald and Ken couldn't make it up the forestry track in Leanachan in their car due to the snow. They were keen to climb Green Gully but it was obviously going to be pouring with spindrift (at best) or have a very high avalanche risk. They opted to go for Castle Ridge instead and had a challenging day out on that in the full on winter conditions. It was bitterly cold again, windy and snowy making just staying comfortable really difficult. There are reports of a rescue on Tower Ridge today which would have been a safe option with regards to the avalanche risk but extremely tough going in the fresh snow and gusting winds. Gary reports it's been snowing non stop for about 30 hours on Loch Tay. Paul and Gary were out snow shoeing up Beinn Ghlas. The road up to the visitor centre is just about passable with 4 wheel drive and there is a mini bus abandond up at the car park! It was very hard going with about a foot of fresh snow to plough through, the snow shoes making it only slightly less arduous!
More snowfall is forecast over the next week, especially on the west coast, as a series of depressions pass to the north of Scotland returning polar maritime (wet and cold) air full of snow on west or south west winds. Have a look at the Synoptic Charts - the wind follows the isobar lines anticlockwise around the lows so our airstream for the next five days originates somewhere near Iceland!

3rd January 2008

It was bitterly cold on the tops today with occasional snow flurries making it feel even more wintry. There was a team on Point Five Gully (V,5) going very slow on the first pitch and others on Green Gully and North Gully. Green Gully (IV,4) was soloed today as well, despite it being reported as looking a bit thin on the first pitch. The E Face of Aonach Mor also has some great climbing just now with very little avalanche danger and no cornice build-up yet. The wind was circulating in the coires at quite a speed in blustery gusts. Cold again tomorrow but warming up tomorrow evening and some snowfall forecast over the weekend.

2nd January 2008
Happy New Year! The first day of the year was a bit warm and damp but today stayed quite dry and slightly cooler. Donald and Andy were checking out future projects on Ben Nevis instead of doing one of them because the rocks were still black. However they did see that Point Five Gully looks very good and Green Gully is still complete so these will be worth a look at when it does freeze properly over the next couple of days. Make the most of them though - it will be back to the mixed weather again at the weekend.