December 2003 Conditions Reports

30th December 2003
It was a busy day on Stob Coire nan Lochan today. Being as fickle as ever it was not as rimed up as the crags on Bidean nam Bien but this didn't stop teams from having a go at the Dual and Central Buttress. Crest Route, being slightly less steep was very white and another team were taking full advantage. It was again very cold and clear today - tomorrow will be a different story as a weather front comes in bringing blizzard conditions. The temperature is going to go up over the next couple of days so the snow will turn to rain at all but the highest levels.

29th December 2003

The big freeze has started! The temperature in Fort William didn't get above zero today, there is snow down to 400m, the buttresses are well rimed and ice is starting to form in climbable quantities. Donald and Andy made a return visit to Bishops Buttress on Bidean nam Bien and they were successful this time on The Crook, a summer HVS. The rock was rimed up and the turf frozen although still a bit dry. This wasn't a problem though as the climb is mostly on rock. There is a reasonable section of technical 8 climbing on the first pitch with protection that is OK but not exactly confidence boosting and more hard climbing on pitch two followed by a nice finish up the ridge of the buttress. The boys graded it VII,8 but be warned - they went on to say "it is quite bold - a full on climb that doesn't really give up"! Mixed climbing is the order of the day for now with most buttresses around here being in condition. The depth of snow in the gullies is not great and we will need many more storms before the likes of SC Gully, Point Five Gully etc. are ready to be climbed but there is much fun to be had on the buttresses and ridges.

27th December 2003
Cold and snowy weather has returned. We have snow down to 300m today and a very cold few days to come with more snow forecast. Most of next week should see freezing temperatures, possibly as cold as -12 celcius on the tops. Water ice will be forming very quickly in all the water courses - Aonach Mor W Face, The Curtain and Garadh Gully on Ben Nevis, all the climbs at Beinn Udlaidh and most at Creag Meagaidh will start to form over the next few days.

24th December 2003
The thaw set in on Monday and has brought temperatures up to double figures again. All is not lost though, it is a temporary thing and when it freezes hard again at the weekend there will be some lovely neve to go and play on. Stay at home tomorrow and enjoy Christmas, good conditions will return soon!

21st December 2003

Wet snow from yesterday had stuck to the mid height buttresses and with a strong wind forecast Donald and I stayed low on the Far Eastern Buttress of Aonach Dubh, overlooking the path up to Stob Coire nan Lochan. It was plastered and we made the first winter ascent of a summer Severe "Nirvana Wall" and thought it to be VII,8. Brilliant sustained climbing, especially on the final wall and through the overhang to finish with the crux and some devious off width torques. Great fun! The temperature dropped during the day - snow is now falling at sea level and ice is forming rapidly in the burns and water courses. Surprisingly, Stob Coire nan Lochan was not so well covered with snow and rime and the big bits of turf will take some more time to freeze.

20th December 2003
Snow was falling down to 300m today and it's properly wintery on Ben Nevis. There is so much fresh snow in fact that one team was caught in an avalanche and were rescued by helicopter. Number Five Gully was not being loaded with fresh snow, rarely the case but not surprising with a NE wind blowing straight up the gully. Donald had a great day finding little outcrops and ice bluffs to practice leading with his team. The ground was hard frozen on top of Carn Dearg but not much below that. After the next few days, which will be very cold, everything should be well frozen and the water courses should have some ice in. Climbs like Garadh Gully and things on the Brenva Face will form readily, Aonach Mor W Face will be worth a visit and Creag Meagaidh won't be far behind. It might be an early Christmas present!

19th December 2003
It did get colder today and light showers have put down a dusting of snow on the hills. More snow tomorrow and a bitterly cold day on Sunday that should see more climbs in condition.

17th December 2003

Another warm soggy day today has washed away much of the snow from a few days ago. We had to go right to the entrance of Broad Gully before we found any snow but it was complete to the top. Looks like it will get colder on Friday with some snow showers over the weekend but there won't be much more than a few major gullies to climb.

16th December 2003
Today was wet and warm, typical warm front weather with constant light rain and plenty of hill fog. The fresh snow of Saturday night is now wet and heavy at all levels but was not melting away too quickly. Tomorrow should be slightly drier.

15th December 2003

It rained continuously on Saturday but by the evening the temperature had dropped enough for snow to fall down to 750m. On Buachaille Etive Beag yesterday we had a lovely day with snow showers in between sunshine and the temperature dropped again during the day. After a hard freeze last night the ground on Ben Nevis above the CIC Hut is fairly well frozen and all the crags were white with fresh snow and rime. Number Three and Number Four Gullies (I) are great, some soft snow on good icy snow. Number Two Gully (II) could be OK but quite challenging at the chockstone and folk were heading up North Gully (II). Green Gully won't take much to bring it into condition - ice has been forming in all the drainage lines and there is some snow in the gullies. A bit more snow, some more thaw freeze cycles and we'll have quite a few climbs in condition.

11th December 2003

Cold last night and today and forecast cold tonight with a front coming in tomorrow bringing snow initially but warming up and turning to rain later. We still have north winds and a big high pressure system coming for next week.

10th December 2003
Today and yesterday were quite warm and very, very wet. With the temperature at 1200m on Aonach Mor at 1 degree celcius it has been thawing at all levels. However it is forecast to get colder and the synoptic charts show a large high pressure system pushing the lows to the north of us and bringing northerly winds across the country by the end of the weekend. This would bring snow and freezing temperatures, let's hope so.

8th December 2003

It was -5 celcius last night on Rannoch Mor and beautifully clear with a full moon. On top of Ben Nevis however it was above freezing during the day with a substantial temperature inversion. Fort William didn't get above freezing! The first pitch of Glovers Chimney was very thinly iced and gave a great pitch for Andy. Number Three, Number Four and Number Five Gullies are mostly complete but there is nothing much else to go for.

4th December 2003

Theories are there to be challenged! This week has gone warm and Donald and Ewen found knee deep wet snow most of the way up Observatory Ridge. This route is notoriously difficult under powder and they found some tricky moves in the first half without consolidated snow. It's forecast clear and cold at the weekend - let's hope so.