April 2008 Conditions Reports

22nd April 2008

With the big melt down forecast to start tomorrow Mike and I decided on one last hit on Ben Nevis. It was slightly warmer and the loose snow had settled and softened (or just been blown away in the strong E winds we've been having). We went high and found great climbing on Indicator Wall Right Hand with the intermediate start on the lower tier. All in all it was fantastic climbing on brilliant fat blue ice in a stunning position. Other teams were out on Hadrian's Wall Direct, Point Five Gully, Green Gully, Thompson's Route and there is lots of ice all over the place. How much will be left after the thaw and rain of the next few days is guess work but a cool down is expected at the end of next week so a May ascent of Point Five Gully could well work out. What ever happens there will be snow in the big gullies for months to come and probably right through into next winter (after all there are only two seasons in Scotland ... May and winter!).

18th April 2008

There is only one place in the country you could enjoy perfect ice climbing in dry subfreezing conditions, skiing on fresh soft snow, valley rock climbing and bouldering in warm sunshine on perfectly dry rock, mountain biking, sea kayaking etc... the Outdoor Capital of the UK Fort William and Lochaber. This week we had fresh snow on Sunday and Monday nights with continuous cold conditions and warm sunshine during the days. The hills are covered on snow with lots of it being soft and fresh. Many big ice climbs are being bagged despite the rather snowy conditions as there is some great ice in the gullies and grooves even if the open faces aren't so good. I've been working on an ML assessment with Pete Hill and our three day expedition was over Beinn Odhar Mhor on the west of Loch Shiel. This is a brilliant, rugged hill with endless bouldering potential on untouched gneiss. The dry and cold conditions will be with us for another few days yet and remember the winter climbing doesn't finish until the daffodils have finished flowering.

13th April 2008
Another calm spring day with some good sunshine, light winds and occasional snow showers on the tops. John and Max enjoyed Tower Scoop and finished up the last section of Tower Ridge from Tower Gap. The gap is easy to get to from the Observatory Gully side and makes a logical finish to Tower Scoop. Soft and slightly soggy snow again. Not much change in the weather is forecast over the next week so get out and enjoy some sublime spring ice climbing conditions!

12th April 2008

A very pleasant day today with most teams out on big grade V classics but nobody on Tower Ridge or easier climbs! Luke and I decided on Orion Direct as the best bet to keep away from the crowds. There were a few teams on each of Zero Gully, Hadrian's Wall, Sickle, Point Five Gully, Smiths Route etc. and just three other teams on Orion Direct! However as it is a wandering face route there is less danger of being hit by falling ice and more scope for variations to keep out of the way (but many thanks to the teams we did pass for letting us through). The route has quite a bit of loose snow on it and is far less reassuring than it was a couple of weeks ago. Mick (Fowler) and Steve got on to Vade Macum from Hadrian's Wall and finished up Observatory Ridge and Zero Gully. The freezing level was at around 1200m on the face so the snow was a bit wet but the weather was grand and we had some lovely views in between the showers. John and Max found very little ice on Creag Meagaidh to play on but had a good time exploring the corries there.

11th April 2008
After a little fresh snow last night we had more sunshine and snow showers today. John and Max went to look at North Buttress of Buachaille Etive Mor but found it wasn't as white as expected after the snow last night so they went for Crowberry Gully instead which is still in good shape. The sun is affecting routes that get some sunshine (The Little Brenva Face on Ben Nevis and E Face of Aonach Mor) but there are still many routes that are in the shade and in great shape.

10th April 2008
With winter still firmly in charge in Lochaber I have been in Argyll running a Summer ML Training Course for Ardroy Outdoor Education Centre at Lochgoilhead. This morning we woke up to find our tents under a thick cover of snow - not very summery conditions! Last weekend Nick took Radek out for some ice climbing on Comb Gully Buttress ib great conditions followed by a very snowy East Ridge of North Buttress on Stob Ban. It's been very cold since with some lovely sunshine and snow showers but some quite cruddy ice as well. Andy reported Hadrian's Wall Direct as being not very solid on Tuesday but got up it just the same! More snow last night (about 30cms in some places) but a lovely day today - Donald had a look at Observatory Ridge but after two and a half pitches of tricky climbing decided that it was too cruddy and went for a wander round the coire to climb Ledge Route instead. There were teams on Zero Gully and Hardian's Wall Direct making steady progress and Twid said Smiths was great yesterday. Staying cold through the weekend and perhaps all of next week as well.

4th April 2008

Rain last night dried up this morning and the clouds slowly gave way to a lovely afternoon of sunshine. Team Welbeck went for Coire Leis after not being able to cross the Allt a'Mhuillin below the CIC Hut due to the snow melt. We climbed up onto the Carn Mor Dearg Arete and enjoyed the last section of narrow ridge before walking up the back of Ben Nevis for a great view in all directions. We have lost a lot of snow and ice in the last week and the first pitch of Orion Direct has melted away. However Zero Gully, Hadrian's Wall Direct, Sickle and Point Five Gully are all complete. Tower Scoop, Good Friday Climb and Smiths Route were climbed today and there are many routes in Coire na Ciste still there. Click on the image above for a bigger version. Cold and snowy over the weekend.

3rd April 2008

Warm again today with very soft and soggy snow but with only very occasional and brief periods of drizzle. Donald and I took the Welbeck team to Aonach Mor where we looked at snow anchors, belaying on steep snow and abseiling off snow bollards. Hopefully the temperature will drop as forecast tomorrow so we don't have to wade through soggy snow any more.

2nd April 2008

It was a mixed weekend with some fresh snow and warmer temperatures. Donald took Pat and Jonny up Nordwand on Castle Ridge North Face on Saturday with some less than reasuring snow, the Aonach Eagach on Sunday and Deep Cut Chimney on Stob Coire nam Beith on Monday which was in pretty good shape. Yesterday was a particularly wet and warm day but today was mostly dry even if it wasn't much colder. All the big ice routes on Ben Nevis are looking good and cold weather over the weekend will make for some great climbing. Donald and I took a group from Welbeck Defence Sixth Form College to the Cairngorms where the sun shone and the snow was soft. Fantastic snow cover all over the hills is making some nice ski touring weather and Creag Meagaidh's Post Face looks well covered in snow and ice.