Mountain Guide and Instructor

April 2005 Conditions Reports


26th April 2005

The good weather is about to finish for a wee while. We had a fantastic weekend with Point Five Gully being climbed in good condition and perfect weather. The snow and ice in the shade has not melted away despite summit temperatures of plus a few degrees because of the very dry air. However, rain and snow on the tops is forecast for the next few days.


21st April 2005

Point Five Gully Gardyloo Buttress Relaxing in the sun after a good climb
The rain didn't last long, in fact it was just enough to make the snowpack wet enough to freeze solid now that it is frosty overnight and staying cold in the shade. The summit area of Ben Nevis is still covered with snow and the major snow gullies are full of hard, icy snow. Remarkably, Point Five Gully and Smiths Route both look like they are in climbable condition! Donald and Andy enjoyed Alpine conditions on Observatory Ridge today, dry rock at the start with crispy snow at the top requiring crampons. It's wall to wall sunshine and frosty mornings here for a couple more days, just like the Alps but better!


18th April 2005

The hills were quite wintry at the weekend and there were a few people out getting a last climb. Donald and Andy went up Tower Ridge on Saturday - Smiths Route and Hadrians Wall Direct both had some ice on! It warmed up during the day though and the rain came in at noon on Sunday, as the freezing level went above the tops. Wet again today but it should dry out a bit mid-week.


16th April 2005

Eastern Traverse of Tower Ridge Above Tower Gap
A team was climbing The White Line (III) today in Coire na Ciste on Ben Nevis, finishing at the top of Tower Ridge. Looked like good conditions as well.


14th April 2005

A warmer weekend took away the fresh snow but temperatures dipped again yesterday giving us more fresh snow down to 650m. Today, summit temperatures are around zero and it is dry. It should stay cool and fairly dry with a few wintry showers before a good day on Saturday. There might even be a chance of a winter route, something rocky on a buttress or ridge, before things warm up again next week.


9th April 2005

A little snow in the garden yesterday started off a beautiful, cold and sunny day. Today, though, the wind has gone back to a westerly bringing warmer temperatures and rain on the summits. Altogether there was about 10 or 15cm of fresh snow which brought everything back to looking like winter but there has not been sufficient time for ice to start forming properly. The lambing storms, as they do every year, bring a brief reflection of winter that only lasts a few days.


5th April 2005

Learning to ascend a rope A tyrolean traverse of the Nevis
A heavy dusting of snow has covered the area down to 500m above sea level. Blustery April showers have been blowing through with some lovely spells of sunshine in between. With temperatures dropping over the next few days due to a strong N wind the weekend might bring a chance of a scramble with a wintry feeling but pick one with lots of rock and little turf. Donald took his team rock climbing today in Glen Nevis where they also looked at all sorts of skills including prussicking and jumaring, abseiling, zip lines and tyrolean traverses. All good fun!


4th April 2005

Cutting steps on Aonach Mor
Snow showers and blustery winds brought a covering of fresh snow to the tops today. Donald taught his team how to cut steps and self arrest, to dig snow holes and build igloos on Aonach Mor. There is still enough snow for basic winter skills coaching in the N and E facing corries and the fresh snow has brought it back to a wintery feel.


3rd April 2005

Donald and team climbing Number 5 Gully On top of Carn Dearg
It stayed dry today until the late afternoon allowing Donald and his team to climb Number Five Gully in very pleasant conditions. When it is safe and the snow is stable this gully offers a very long and interesting route to Carn Dearg, the N top of Ben Nevis.


2nd April 2005

After a lovely Easter weekend with lots of good cragging and a few major snow gullies being climbed, the weather has been on the dry side of mixed. Remarkably warm for the end of March but that will change briefly over the next few days. A light dusting of snow will fall down to 500m as snow showers pass over the area on a colder air stream. Summit temperatures will be around -2celcius. There are still large areas of snow in the N and E facing high coires but the ridges and summits are all but clear of snow already. It's a great time of year to be practicing Alpine skills ready for a summer trip to the Alps.